Pruning Young & Mature Pear Trees: A Beginner’s Guide

Pruning your pear tree every year helps promote growth and fruit production, keep it healthy and resistant to pests and diseases, and maintain an attractive shape. But if you’re not sure how to prune your tree and help it grow delicious pears, we’re here to help! wikiHow partnered with gardening experts to explain how to trim a mature tree and when it's best to prune. If you have a brand new tree, we’ll also explain how to shape and train it. Keep on reading to learn more!

Pro Tips for Pruning Pear Trees

Edible gardening expert Erin Hostetler says to prune pear trees in mid to late winter while the tree is bare and hasn’t started to bud. Use clean, sharp tools and remove the limbs just above the branch’s collar. Start at the bottom and trim damaged branches, suckers and water sprouts, and crossing branches.

Section 1 of 5:

Pruning a Mature Pear Tree

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1
Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. Use a pair of clean and sharp pruning shears or a pruning saw to remove any colorless, brittle, broken, rotting, or discolored branches. Simply cut the branch off at the origin of the damage. If the entire branch is affected, prune it at a slight angle at the collar, which is the base of the branch where it meets the trunk.^{[1]
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- Hostetler recommends working your way up the tree to trim off dead and dying sections.^{[2]
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  Edible Gardening Expert
  
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- If the branch is diseased, cut the branch off at least 6 inches (15 cm) below where you see discolored and diseased bark.^{[3]
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- You will know if an area is damaged or dead if it does not have leaves during the growing season when the rest of the tree is in bloom.
- Note: Lichen does not indicate that your tree is diseased. It is generally harmless and, in most cases, actually indicates that your tree is getting good airflow.^{[4]
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- When is a pear tree mature? Most experts recommend waiting until your tree is 3 to 5 years old to make significant pruning cuts.^{[5]
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  Research source} Hostetler agrees and says she likes to wait until the tree is around 2 years old, which is usually once the tree is established and sets out initial growth.^{[6]
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Meet the wikiHow Experts

Erin Hostetler is an edible gardening expert and the owner of The Patio Farmer. She has over 10 years of experience working on farms and growing food.

Steve Masley is a garden specialist who’s been designing and maintaining organic vegetable gardens for over 30 years. He’s also the founder of Grow-It-Organically.

Gus Briones is a landscaping specialist with over 30 years of experience working on renovations and new builds for clients. He’s also the founder of Rock, Turf & Landscape.
Sprouts and small branches growing from the bottom of the trunk and the roots are called “suckers.” They don’t produce fruit and can take away resources and nutrients from the branches that do. So, use your shears or saw to cut them off at the trunk, or as close to the ground as possible.^{[7]
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If you see any straight, vertical sprouts growing from a main branch of your tree or the trunk, that’s a "water sprout." These sprouts are vigorous growers that can divert energy and nutrients from the rest of the branches, so it’s important to cut them back.^{[8]
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Research source} Simply use your shears or saw to cut the sprouts back to the branch’s collar.
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Remove branches that grow downward. According to Hostetler, it’s a good idea to prune any branches that point downwards, as they will be weaker sections of the tree as it matures and begins to grow fruit in the spring and summer.^{[9]
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Erin Hostetler
Edible Gardening Expert

Expert Interview} If you have branches that are growing downward, prune them back to the branch collar.^{[10]
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- For the best fruit production, you want the branches of the tree to extend slightly upward and horizontally at about a 45° angle.^{[11]
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- Your overall goal is to have a tree with evenly spaced branches that splay out in a pleasing visual pattern from the center.
Hostetler says to trim off any branches that cross through the middle of the tree, as they create excess shade and can limit fruit production and the tree’s overall health.^{[12]
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Erin Hostetler
Edible Gardening Expert

Expert Interview} Plus, branches that grow against the main flow of outward, upward branches will crowd your other branches and reduce airflow, which also affects your tree’s health. Simply prune these branches back to the branch’s collar.^{[13]
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Thin out branches that cross and touch each other. Look for any branches that criss-cross over one another, are lying on top of each other, or are rubbing against each other. Branches that are too close together can limit sunlight and airflow, harming your tree, and compete against one another, limiting fruit production. Simply choose the healthiest appearing branch to keep and prune the other branch back to the collar.^{[14]
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- The branch you keep should also have the best angle where it extends from the trunk, which is around 45°. Branches with too wide or narrow angles don’t produce fruit well.^{[15]
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Trim very tall branches as needed. Shape and thin out the canopy to maintain your pear tree at your desired size. This also ensures that you can reach the fruit your tree produces! Look for any long branches and cut them back to your desired height with your shears or saw.^{[16]
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- Step back often to assess the shape and size of your tree and to ensure you’re not cutting back too much of your tree. Do not remove more than 30% of your tree’s branches, as too much pruning can damage your tree.^{[17]
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Section 2 of 5:

Pruning and Training a New Pear Tree

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Prune newly planted trees without any branches to 36 in (91 cm) tall. If you planted a baby pear tree that’s just a stem and doesn’t have any branches yet, pruning it back helps encourage side branches to form. Use clean and sharp cutting shears or a saw to cut back the center stem just above a bud so the tree is around 36 in (91 cm) tall.^{[18]
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Trim any low-hanging, competing, and damaged branches. If your newly planted pear tree does have some branches, give it a minimal prune. Remove any branches that are lower than 24 inches (61 cm).^{[19]
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Research source} Then, prune off any dead, damaged, or diseased branches, as well as any that touch or cross one another.^{[20]
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In the first spring, select 4-5 branches to serve as scaffolds. Most experts recommend shaping pear trees like a Christmas tree, with multiple side branches (called scaffolds) that come off the main trunk (called the central leader). A good scaffold branch is at least 24 inches (61 cm) above the ground and extends at a 45° angle from the central leader. Select 4 to 5 to keep, ensure they are evenly spaced, and are about 6 inches (15 cm) apart from each other.^{[21]
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- Then, prune off the rest of the branches you haven’t chosen as the scaffolds.
- Remove any dead or diseased branches, as well as any suckers or water sprouts.
4
In the second spring, select a second set of scaffold branches. The next year, choose 2 to 3 new branches that are above the first scaffold tier to serve as the second scaffold tier. Ensure the branches you choose grow at a 45° angle, are evenly spaced, and are at least 12 inches (30 cm) apart and above the first-tier branches. Remove any excess side branches, as well as any that compete with the central leader.^{[22]
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- Make sure to prune off any dead or diseased branches, as well as any suckers or water sprouts.
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In the third spring, choose a third set of scaffold branches. Like the previous year, select 1 or 2 newly grown branches to serve as the third tier of scaffold branches. Make sure they extend at a 45° angle, are evenly spaced around the tree, and are at least 12 inches (30 cm) apart and above the second-tier branches. Then, prune off any excess branches.^{[23]
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- After the third year, most pear trees are considered mature. So, start a regular pruning schedule where you remove dead and damaged branches, suckers and water sprouts, competing and crossing branches, and tall or long branches to maintain the tree’s shape.^{[24]
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Section 3 of 5:

When to Prune a Pear Tree

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1
Prune your pear tree in the winter on a dry day. According to Hostetler, the best time to prune a fruit tree is in mid to late winter when the tree is bare and hasn’t started to bud.^{[25]
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Erin Hostetler
Edible Gardening Expert

Expert Interview} As garden specialist Steve Masley explains, pruning a fruit tree during its dormant season redirects energy to the branches you keep, which helps encourage new growth.^{[26]
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Steve Masley
Garden Specialist

Expert Interview}
- Plus, there are no leaves on the tree during the winter, which helps you better see what you’re pruning!
- Choose a dry day to prune your pear tree. If it’s raining or snowing when you cut your tree, there’s a higher risk of infection getting into the wet cuts.
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Remove new suckers and water sprouts in the summer. Suckers and water sprouts can grow in the spring, and it’s important to remove them as they can reduce your tree’s growth and fruit production. Just wait to remove them until the summer, as pruning suckers and water sprouts in the spring can encourage more to grow.^{[27]
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Cut off dead and damaged branches as needed throughout the year. Regularly check your pear tree for dead, dying, damaged, and diseased branches. Then, simply snip them off as you see them. It’s especially important to prune diseased branches quickly, as they can spread to the rest of your tree.^{[28]
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- Fire blight is one of the most common pear tree diseases. It causes shoots to appear scorched and to grow into a shepherd’s hook appearance. It’s important to trim any diseased branches immediately.
- Note: Avoid pruning off branches while the tree is blooming and about 2 weeks after it finishes blooming to keep it healthy.^{[29]
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Section 4 of 5:

Pruning Best Practices

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As Hostetler explains, you want to use sharp and clean pruning shears or a saw that leaves clear cuts.^{[30]
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Erin Hostetler
Edible Gardening Expert

Expert Interview} Before each pruning session, wipe your tools with isopropyl alcohol to disinfect them. This is important, as dirty tools can spread diseases. If your shears or saw are dull, sharpen them yourself or take them to your local hardware store.^{[31]
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Make slanted cuts that are flush with the major branch or trunk. Cuts that are slightly slanted help deter water from soaking into the cut and prevent the branch from getting infected. Ensure the cuts you make are close to the branch’s collar, too, as this helps the wound heal. Leaving too much of the branch or cutting into the main branch or trunk can damage the tree.^{[32]
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- Avoid leaving little stubs when you make cuts. Make a clean, slanted cut right up against the larger branch.
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Avoid cutting fruiting spurs most of the time. Fruiting spurs grow on branches that were originally grown 2 years ago, so you don’t need to worry about them on very young trees. They look like smaller curved branches growing off a main branch, with little bud-like shapes, or fruit buds, at the tip.^{[33]
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- Fruiting spurs usually take 1 or 2 years to grow fruit. The year after fruiting, another 1 or 2 fruit buds will appear in that spot.
- After 6 or 7 years, the spur will become congested with fruit buds, and then you can prune them to allow new fruiting spurs to grow elsewhere. The only other reason to cut them is if the branch is dead or damaged.
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Only prune 10-20% of your tree each year. As Hostetler says, a good rule of thumb is to remove no more than 30% of the branches when you prune each year.^{[34]
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Erin Hostetler
Edible Gardening Expert

Expert Interview} Keeping your pruning minimal keeps your tree healthy and promotes new growth. If you prune too much, your tree may produce lots of water sprouts, which can crowd your tree and deter fruit production.^{[35]
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- Landscaping specialist Gus Briones adds that if you prune too much of your tree, you can also introduce more diseases because it opens up a large wound that’s susceptible to bacteria. He says a large pruning job can also dehydrate your tree.^{[36]
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- As Briones explains, you never want to give your tree a big chop. Instead, it’s best to thin it out little by little to maintain its shape.^{[37]
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- If your pruning pile starts looking a little big, or more than 10-20% of your tree, it’s time to stop. Wait until next year to prune more.
Overall, you want your pear tree to be shaped like a Christmas tree, with a main trunk and side branches that extend out evenly. Ensure all of your pruning cuts allow air and light to reach the branches by keeping the branches evenly spaced, maintaining a singular “central leader,” and removing competing branches.^{[38]
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Section 5 of 5:

Why is it important to prune a pear tree?

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Pruning keeps the tree healthy and promotes growth and fruit production. As Masley explains, the branch structure is very important in fruit trees, and pruning controls the shape of the tree. If you don’t prune, this leaves heavy, low-hanging branches that don’t produce good fruit. Additionally, he says pruning opens up the canopy to promote better air flow, which prevents the branches from getting overloaded.^{[39]
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Steve Masley
Garden Specialist

Expert Interview} Pruning also helps more light hit the branches, which helps produce better fruits.^{[40]
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- Cutting back your tree also controls its size, which makes it easier to maintain and helps control the amount of fruit you get.
- Plus, pruning removes damaged branches that can harm your tree, which helps keep it healthy and extend its life.

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Do pear trees need to be pruned?

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This answer was written by one of our trained team of researchers who validated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness.

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Pruning isn’t strictly necessary, but it can help your tree produce stronger fruit-bearing branches, which will optimize your pear harvest. Pruning also helps control the size and shape of your tree.

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What month do you prune pear trees?

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It’s best to prune a pear tree in late winter, shortly before it begins budding. Aim to prune your tree in late February or early March.

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Can a pear tree be topped?

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You can top a young pear tree if absolutely necessary (e.g., if it’s gotten too tall for its space), but it’s not great for the tree. Topping a mature pear tree can be very damaging, and it won’t encourage the tree to produce more fruit. If your pear tree is too tall, do a light crown-reduction pruning while the tree is dormant instead of lopping the whole top off.

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Warnings

Follow all safety precautions and instructions when operating a pruning saw. Be sure to wear safety equipment, including eye protection, boots, long pants, and long sleeves.

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