A Beginner's Yarn Thickness Guide (Crochet & Knitting)

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Crochet and knitting expert Sellenee Sich explains the range of yarn weights you can work with

Co-authored by Sellenee Sich and Elaine Heredia, BA

Last Updated: August 17, 2026 Fact Checked

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• What is yarn weight?
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• Projects by Weight
|
• Choosing a Yarn
|
• Measuring WPI
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• Video

|Show more |Show less

There's a lot more to knitting and crocheting than plucking a random skein of yarn off the store shelf and going to town with it. The key to making your project look the way the designer intended is to use the specific yarn weight that the pattern recommends. Not sure what that means? Don't worry, you will soon enough! We spoke to crochet and knitting experts to help us explain what yarn weight is, the best projects for each weight, and other things to consider when selecting yarn for a given project. We also explain how to measure your yarn's weight when it's not listed on the packaging. Let's go!

Yarn Weight Chart

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Crochet and knitting expert Sellenee Sich says yarn comes in a wide range of weights, from lace (thinnest) to jumbo (thickest). Below is a breakdown of each weight and the type of yarn associated with it:

• Lace (0): Fingering 10-count crochet thread
• Super fine (1): Fingering, sock, and baby
• Fine (2): Sport and baby
• Light (3): Double knit (DK) and light worsted
• Medium (4): Worsted, afghan, and aran
• Bulky (5): Chunky, craft, and rug
• Super bulky (6) and jumbo (7): Roving

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Section 1 of 4:

What is yarn weight?

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   Yarn weight refers to the yarn's thickness, not how heavy it feels. "Yarn comes in a range of weights," says Sich, "categorized from lace weight (smallest) to jumbo (largest)." The difference between the weights is not how heavy they feel, but how thick the strands are. Here’s a full list of each weight:

   • Lace (0)
   • Super Fine (1)
   • Fine (2)
   • Light (3)
   • Medium (4)
   • Bulky (5)
   • Super bulky (6)
   • Jumbo (7)

   Meet the wikiHow Experts

   Sellenee Sich is a crochet and knitting expert and the owner of a business that sells crochet and knitting supplies. She loves helping people develop their crafting skills.

   Erin Toews is a crochet expert, a business owner, and a pattern designer. She designs pieces that bring comfort and invite conversation.

   Katarzyna Kapuścińska is a crochet expert and an adept craftswoman specializing in textile-related projects. She's also the primary editor at crochetpedia.com.
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   Different crochet and knitting patterns call for different yarn weights. Yarn weight is extremely important! It dictates how your crochet or knitting project looks and feels at the end, as well as its size and durability. It also helps you determine which size crochet hook or knitting needles to use and how many stitches will bring your project to life.
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Section 2 of 4:

Best Projects by Yarn Weight

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   Lace (0): Delicate doilies, shawls, scarves, and wraps Lace weight yarn is the thinnest of all the weights. This makes it ideal for knitting or crocheting small, delicate items with intricate designs, including shawls, scarves, wraps, and doilies. If you're a beginner, you might want to avoid this weight at first, since it's harder to work with. It's also not a great idea to make large items with lace, like blankets, since the process will take a really long time.

   • Type of yarn: Fingering 10-count crochet thread
   • Knitting needle sizes (US): 000-1 (1.5 mm-2.25 mm)
   • Crochet hook sizes (US): Steel 6, 7, and 8 (1.6 mm-1.4 mm); regular hook B-1 (2.25 mm)
   • Gauge: 4" = 32-42 stitches
   • What is a doily? For those who aren't aware, a doily is a decorative piece of lace traditionally draped on the tops of furniture. It makes beautiful decor all by itself, but it can also function as a protective layer between a hard object, like a bowl or a lamp, and a wood surface.
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   Super fine (1): Knit socks, scarves, shawls, and garments Super fine and lace are very similar in thickness, so you might see a pattern for a crocheted scarf or a shawl call for this weight, as well. Another common use for super fine yarn is knitting socks, which generally require small stitches and a tight weave. Crochet expert Erin Toews says it also works well for crocheted garments, like t-shirts, since it's not too thick.

   • Types of yarn: Fingering, sock, and baby
   • Knitting needle sizes (US): 1 to 3 (2.25 mm-3.25 mm)
   • Crochet hook sizes (US): B-1 to E-4 (2.25 mm-3.5 mm)
   • Gauge: 4" = 21-32 stitches
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   Fine (2): Baby clothing, sweaters, and cold-weather accessories Fine yarn is popular for lightweight garments that still feel cozy. You may notice some baby clothing patterns calling for this weight, as well as patterns for crochet cardigans and cold-weather accessories. The last category includes hats, gloves, scarves, shawls, and thick socks.

   • Types of yarn: Sport and baby
   • Knitting needle sizes (US): 3 to 5 (3.25 mm-3.75 mm)
   • Crochet hook sizes (US): E-4 to 7 (3.5 mm - 4.5 mm)
   • Gauge: 4" = 16-20 stitches
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   Light (3): Baby blankets, stuffed animals, and lightweight garments If you're a beginner at knitting or crocheting and want a yarn weight that will be easy to work with, look no further than light yarn. This weight works great for lightweight baby blankets and clothing, as well as the shell for a stuffed animal.

   • Types of yarn: Double knit (DK) and light worsted
   • Knitting needle sizes (US): 5 to 7 (3.75 mm-4.5 mm)
   • Crochet hook sizes (US): 7 to I-9 (4.5 mm-5.5 mm)
   • Gauge: 4" = 12-17 stitches
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   Medium (4): Adult-sized blankets, cold-weather accessories, and placemats Medium is probably the most versatile yarn weight, and crochet expert Katarzyna Kapuścińska says it's the best one for beginners, as well. With this thicker yarn, you can embark on an adult-sized blanket project with no fear that it will take a ridiculous amount of time. In fact, you can make just about any project you want, from hats and scarves to placemats and table runners!

   • Types of yarn: Worsted, afghan, and aran
   • Knitting needle sizes (US): 7 to 9 (4.5 mm-5.5 mm)
   • Crochet hook sizes (US): I-9 to K-10 ½ (5.5 mm-6.5 mm)
   • Gauge: 4" = 11-14 stitches
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   Bulky (5): Chunky blankets, cold-weather accessories, rugs, and pillows Let's say you want to start knitting or crocheting, but you need a project that you can complete in 3-4 hours. Toews says that the bigger (i.e., thicker) your yarn is, the faster it will go. That's especially true of a bulky yarn, which can see you through patterns for chunky blankets, hats, and pillows. You can even make a rug with it!

   • Types of yarn: Chunky, Craft, and Rug
   • Knitting needle sizes (US): 9 to 11 (5.5 mm-8 mm)
   • Crochet hook sizes (US): K 10 ½ to M-13 (6.5 mm-9 mm)
   • Gauge: 4" = 8-11 stitches
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   Super Bulky (6): Chunky blankets, scarves, baskets, and rugs If you only have 1-2 hours to spare for a knit craft, you can't go wrong with super bulky yarn! It's great for chunky throw blankets, as well as scarves. Other great ways to use it are weaving baskets and rugs.

   • Types of yarn: Super bulky and roving
   • Knitting needle sizes (US): 11 to 17 (8 mm-12.75 mm)
   • Crochet hook sizes (US): M-13 to Q (9 mm-15 mm)
   • Gauge: 4" = 7-9 stitches
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   Jumbo (7): Finger-knit blankets, pillows, and mats You can forgo needles and hooks altogether with jumbo yarn! This weight is thick enough that you can make chains out of it just by using your fingers (which is where the term finger knitting comes from). Craft thick, heavy blankets, pillows, mats, and other large projects that you want to have a big, chunky finish.

   • Types of yarn: Jumbo and roving
   • Knitting needle sizes (US): 17+ (12.75 mm+)
   • Crochet hook sizes (US): Q+ (15 mm+)
   • Gauge: 4" = 6 or fewer stitches
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Section 3 of 4:

What to Consider When Choosing a Yarn

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   Use the yarn weight, gauge, and hook/needle size recommended in the pattern. If you want your finished project to look exactly like the designer intended, Toews says to use a similar yarn weight and hook size that the pattern recommends. Also, pay attention to the gauge size. These aren't mere suggestions! If you stray too far from these guidelines, your project might not turn out the way you intended. Here are some examples of how much these factors influence the final results:

   • If you select a fine yarn instead of a medium yarn to knit a large afghan, you might be working on it for months. That's because fine yarn is thinner than medium yarn, and therefore the stitches will be smaller.
   • If you choose a medium yarn for an afghan but use a small, B-1 crochet hook, your stitches will be very small and tight. In that case, a blanket that could have taken a week or two (or less) to complete might now take much longer.
   • If you knit an afghan that calls for a gauge of 14 stitches with a gauge of 25 stitches, the blanket could end up being smaller than desired. You would know the gauge is off if you ran out of yarn before you finish the afghan, even though you used the exact number of skeins the pattern recommended.
   • What is gauge? Gauge is the number of stitches in a 4 in (10 cm) knitted or crocheted square.
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   Select the proper yarn ply for your desired durability, weight, and texture. Something else to consider when choosing yarn is the ply. Ply refers to the number of strands twisted together into a single string of yarn. For example, 2-ply yarn is made up of 2 strands, 3-ply has 3 strands, and so on. The more plied the yarn is, the stronger and more durable it is, and the less it pills. Your pattern will probably list the ply you need to use, but if not, consider the type of project and how much wear and tear you want the item to go through.

   • If it's a delicate item that will mostly be used for decoration, you can get away with a single-ply yarn.
   • If it's a garment, a washcloth, a blanket, a rug, or another item that you plan to use a lot, a bigger ply will help it withstand many wears and washes.
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   Choose a natural or synthetic yarn material that will meet your needs. Another important factor in your yarn is the material. Natural yarns (wool, cotton, silk, linen, hemp, etc.) are biodegradable, breathable, and softer than synthetic or manmade yarns (acrylic, nylon, polyester, rayon, etc.). However, natural yarns are expensive, and some, like wool and cotton, shrink and lose their shape when they're not washed properly. Synthetic yarns are cheaper and can endure more wear and tear, but they also tend to feel scratchier.

   • When choosing yarn material, think about your budget, the type of project, and who will use it the most. For example, you might want to select cotton yarn for a baby blanket, since it's soft but also has some heft to it. But you might opt for a synthetic blend yarn to make a dishcloth, since it needs to hold up under a lot of washes.
   • If you're a beginner, Sich suggests starting with a yarn that's easy to care for, like "machine-washable options or superwash wool blends."
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Section 4 of 4:

How to Measure Yarn Weight with WPI

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1. 
   Count the number of times the yarn wraps around an object in 1 inch (2.5 cm). If you buy yarn secondhand with no packaging, it's easy to figure out the yarn's weight yourself. First, pick up one end of the yarn and wrap it evenly around about 1 inch down the length of a pencil (you can also use any object at hand with a uniform thickness). Use a firm tension, but don't wrap the yarn super tightly! Ensure each wrap sits right next to the previous one and doesn't overlap. Next, hold a ruler or fabric measuring tape up lengthwise to the rows of wrapped yarn, and count the number of wraps in 1 inch (2.5 cm). This is your yarn's WPI. Finally, compare your findings with the WPI chart below.

   • Lace (0): 30-40+ WPI
   • Super fine (1): 14-30 WPII
   • Fine (2): 12-18 WPI
   • Light (3): 11-15 WPI
   • Medium (4): 9-12 WPI
   • Bulky (5): 6-9 WPI
   • Super bulky (6): 5-6 WPI
   • Jumbo (7): 1-4 WPI

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