What Are the Different Styles of Cowboy Hats?

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Plus, how to choose the right cowboy hat for your style & face shape

Co-authored by Pablo Alvarez and Samantha Fulton, BA

Last Updated: August 14, 2026 Fact Checked

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Cowboy Hat Crown Styles

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Cowboy Hat Brim Styles

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Cowboy Hat Materials

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Choosing a Cowboy Hat

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FAQs

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If you need guidance on finding the perfect cowboy hat to complete your Western ensemble, you’re in the right place. Whether you’re headed to the rodeo or you just want a twist of twang in your daily look, we’ve got you covered. In this guide, we’ll cover cowboy hat crown styles and brim styles and let you know what they’re best for and which ones pair well with each other. Plus, keep reading for a breakdown of cowboy hat materials and how choose the right cowboy hat style, with exclusive insights from a personal stylist!

Cowboy Hat Crown & Brim Styles

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An image depicting cowboy hat crown and brim styles.

Cowboy hat crown styles are the shape of the hat’s dome. This includes any dents or creases, the height of the hat, and the shape of the top. Popular crowns include the Cattleman, the Gus, and the Telescope. The brim can be flat, rolled, or curved and paired with different crowns for different styles.

Section 1 of 5:

Cowboy Hat Crown Styles

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Open The Open, or Boss of the Plains, is the original cowboy hat. John B. Stetson, a hat manufacturer from Philadelphia, created this style for the everyday working Westerner in the late 1800s.^{[1]
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Research source} It has no indentations or creases and is rounded on top. This means you can create your own hat shape.
- Best for: Custom shaping or classic cowboy style
- Typical height: 6 in (15.24 cm)
Meet the wikiHow Expert

is a personal stylist with over 20 years of experience. She has her own personal styling company (Edie Styles) and has been a fashion editor for several magazines.
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Cattleman The Cattleman crown is the shape that likely comes to mind when you think of cowboy hats that defined the West, explains Chief Hatter Pablo Alvarez.^{[2]
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Expert Source

Pablo Alvarez
Chief Hatter

Expert Interview} It features a deep middle crease with two mid-sized creases on each side of the crown. This iconic, symmetrical style will help you fit right in at the rodeo or a night out in Nashville.
- Best for: Traditional Western style
- Typical height: 4.5 to 5 in (11.43 to 12.7 cm)
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Gus The Gus crown is a variation of the Cattleman. Its main distinctive feature is its height, giving the wearer a taller appearance. Plus, the high crown allows better air circulation to keep your head cool if you’re out and about! This crown is usually paired with a sloping brim for extra sun protection.^{[3]
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- Best for: Bold style and comfort
- Typical height: 2.75 in (6.985 cm), increasing in height toward the back of the crown
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Telescope (The Gambler) The Telescope crown offers a simple, functional look. This style is flat on top with a circular crease. It sits lower on the head which makes it perfect when you need a little extra sun protection. Because it’s lower on the head, it tends to have a more stable fit.
- Best for: Outdoor and functional use
- Typical height: 4.5 in (11.43 cm)
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Pinch-Front Also known as the Derby, the Pinch-Front crown offers a modern look with a touch of Western twang. This crown shape has a large center crease and two indentations in the front, giving it a sloped, “pinched” look.^{[4]
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Research source} Its blend of function and flair make it the perfect thing to wear to a fun, outdoor event like a country music festival.
- Best for: Trendy styles and casual outings
- Typical height: 4.5 in (11.43 cm)
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Minnick The Minnick is similar to the Cattleman but with a softer, more subtle look. It has a shallow middle crease with a small crease on either side of the crown. This crown style keeps the traditional Western vibe but is less dramatic. It’s perfect for daily wear, but you can dress it up for more fashion-forward looks, too.
- Best for: Subtle approaches to classic Western style
- Typical height: 5.5 in (13.97 cm)
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Brick The Brick crown is a modern spin on the classic cowboy style. It has sharp, defined edges with a flat, squared-off top. This style is perfect if you want to make a fashion statement while maintaining the iconic Western aesthetic.
- Best for: Modern styles and more elegant events
- Typical height: 4.5 in (11.43 cm)
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Cool Hand Luke The Cool Hand Luke crown was popularized by, and named for, legendary bullrider Luke Snyder.^{[5]
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Research source} It features a distinctive oval dent in the top with a small dent on each side of the crown. If you’re headed to the rodeo and want to show that you know your bull riding icons, this is the style for you.
- Best for: Casual, rugged looks and outdoor use
- Typical height: 5.5 in (13.97 cm)
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West Texas Punch The West Texas Punch (WTP) is a great functional, outdoor style. It was named for the cowpunchers (working cowboys) in West Texas who favored this bold style. The WTP has two large dents on either side of the crown, with no center crease. This is a super practical everyday hat.
- Best for: Performance and durability
- Typical height: 6 in (15.24 cm)
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Tom Mix The Tom Mix crown, or the 10-gallon hat, is characterized by its large appearance. It’s named for silent-film star and Western legend Tom Mix.^{[6]
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Research source} This crown style has old-school charm and is perfect for anyone looking to make a bold fashion statement.
- Best for: Vintage Western style
- Typical height: 7 in (17.78 cm)

Section 2 of 5:

Cowboy Hat Brim Styles

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Cattleman’s Crease The Cattleman’s Crease brim features upward-angled edges with a subtle curl. It is also referred to as the Rancher’s Crease. It offers a classic, Western look and is one of the most common brim styles.
- Pairs well with: Cattleman and Gus crowns
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Flat Brim The flat brim, as its name implies, is flat all the way around. This can offer good sun protection, or it can give you a sleek look for your trendy, Western outfit. The flat brim is a popular, modern variation of a classic, Western look that can work with lots of styles and aesthetics.
- Pairs well with: Cattleman and Gus crowns
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George Round The George Round is similar to the Cattleman’s Crease, but it has a softer curve. It features about 6 inches (15.24 cm) of flat brim in the front before it starts to curve upward.^{[7]
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Research source} This brim style will give you sun protection with flair.
- Pairs well with: Cattleman, Minnick, and West Texas Punch crowns
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Bullrider Crease Also known as the JB Brim, this is an extra wide, mostly flat brim. It measures about 10 inches (25.4 cm) across the front and has a very gentle upward curve. The gentle curve makes it perfect for outdoor work or leisure activities.^{[8]
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- Pairs well with: West Texas Punch, Telescope, and Cool Hand Luke crowns
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Taco Brim This brim is also known as the Quarter Horse, Relaxed Quarter Horse, or Wide Quarter Horse. It has a flat front before sharply curving upward at a 90° angle. Its variations (relaxed or wide quarter horse) can be more relaxed for a less extreme look.
- Pairs well with: West Texas Punch, Cool Hand Luke, and Brick crowns
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Rolled Brim The Rolled Brim has a subtle, refined look. It has rolled edges, so the brim curls in toward the crown. This is a good brim for trendy styles and everyday wear. Like the flat brim, it can work well with lots of styles and aesthetics, as well as giving you a classic Western look.
- Pairs well with: Telescope, Open, and Tom Mix crowns

Section 3 of 5:

What materials are cowboy hats made of?

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Cowboy hats can be made of felt, straw, wool, or leather. While you can choose a material based on personal preference, certain materials are better suited for certain weather conditions and purposes.^{[9]
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Research source} Here’s a quick breakdown of what each material is best for:
- Felt: Colder weather, durability, and formal events
- Straw: Summer weather, casual styles, and outdoor wear
- Wool: Mild winter weather, less expensive alternative to traditional felt
- Leather: Durability, outdoor use, rugged appearance

Section 4 of 5:

How to Choose a Cowboy Hat

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Decide if your hat will be for fashion or function. Some cowboy hats work better for completing a trendy ensemble than for doing fieldwork or being out in the sun. Consider whether you’ll be wearing your hat to get that perfect Western aesthetic or if you need it to offer functional use for sun protection or durability.
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Consider your face shape. Different brims and crowns will work better for different face shapes. Determine your face shape to help you guide which hat will look best on you. Make sure you try on a few different styles to see what suits you! In the meantime, here are some general guidelines on which face shapes work with which cowboy hats:^{[10]
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- Round face: Try medium/tall crowns with angled brims and avoid narrow brims or round crowns
- Oval face: Most cowboy hat styles will work with this face shape
- Square face: Try curved brims and rounded crowns and avoid flat brims
- Long/narrow face: Try wider brims with lower crowns and avoid tall crowns
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Be mindful of the season. This will help you decide on what material you want your cowboy hat to be. Plus, it can influence what type of brim you’ll want. If it’s warmer out, you’ll likely want a straw hat with a more protective brim. If it’s cold, a wool or felt hat will probably be a safer bet.
- Personal stylist Edie O’Brien recommends wearing a felt cowboy hat in the fall and winter, and a straw or woven cowboy hat in the spring and summer.^{[11]
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Choose based on your personal style and preference. At the end of the day, your personal preference is what matters most. If there’s a specific aesthetic you want to achieve, go for it! It can help to go to a store in person so you can try on different hats and decide what makes you feel best. You can even bring some inspo pictures if you have a look in mind.
- Tip: Bring a friend for second opinions! It can help to have a second set of eyes.

Section 5 of 5:

Frequently Asked Questions

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How should a cowboy hat fit? Cowboy hats should be snug enough that wind won’t blow it off your head, but it shouldn’t be tight enough to cause discomfort.^{[12]
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Research source} If you’re going to be wearing your hat outdoors or for functional use, you’ll want to make sure it’s secure enough to stay on your head.
- Need extra help? Use our guide to measure your cowboy hat size!
- According to O’Brien, it’s important to see a specialist and have your hat shaped to fit your head.^{[13]
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  Edie O'Brien
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Are certain styles better for different purposes? Yes, some hats work better for specific functions or aesthetics. For example, crown styles like the Cattleman can be better for a Western aesthetic. Or, the flat brim can be better for sun protection. However, it all comes down to the look and feel you prefer. Just because one crown or brim is best for one purpose doesn’t mean you can’t still rock it!
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Can I adjust the brim and the crown myself? You can usually shape or reshape your brim or crown with steam. While some hats come pre-shaped and shouldn’t be altered, if you have an Open style cowboy hat and want to customize it, you can shape your own cowboy hat.
- It’s usually easier to reshape the brim than the crown and is easier to reshape a felt hat than a straw one.
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What is the most popular cowboy hat style? The Cattleman (crown and crease) is the most common and popular style of cowboy hat. This is what usually comes to mind when you picture a cowboy hat. Some common, popular alternatives are the Gus and the Pinch-Front.